Gelupo is just as much a destination as Bocca di Lupo across the road, with its dinky parlour hiding many of the best ice cream in the city. The amarena rippled by ricotta is unmissable, so also, for lovers of chocolate, the Bonet: darkish chocolate, rum, caramel, amaretti, espresso and egg yolk mingling indecently.The Lucali Burger’s double patt